Skill Level: Intermediate
Cost: $
Time: 2-4 hours
Supplies:
Tools:
Step 1: Pick your lamp size
In order to start building your lamp, the first step you have to take is to pick your desired bottle! You can choose any size you want, but for this project I used a wine bottle that was from a clients' favorite winery. The size of the bottle will dictate the size of your lamp shade. For this typical sized wine bottle, I decided to use a 10-inch "slip-UNO" style lamp shade. The slip-UNO mounting style was needed because the lamp kit I used does not have a harp around the bulb socket. This means the lamp shade must mount under the bulb and the bulb itself retains the shade on the lamp.
Step 2: Cut a hole in your bottle for the electrical cord
I used a 3/8-inch diamond hole saw bit, which is the next to largest sized bit in this kit, with the glass cutter oil to keep the bit lubricated during the cut. I laid the bottle on its side in a paint tray liner to keep the cutting oil off of the table and to keep the bottle from rolling away when I let go of it. This step is easier if you have a second set of hands to keep dripping the cutting oil on the surface of the bottle. Otherwise, if you are working alone, you can just stop the drill when you see the glass dust start to dry up around the bit. IMPORTANT: DO NOT PUSH DOWN ON THE DRILL WHILE CUTTING THE BOTTLE. You will exponentially increase your risk of breaking the bottle if you do. Just let the bit do the cutting with the help of gravity. Only use enough pressure to keep the bit straight. BE PATIENT... and don't be discouraged if the bit tries to slip a little when you first start. You are drilling a curved glass surface with a good amount of cutting oil working against you! Just stop, reset, and start again in the same place. The bit will rough up the surface pretty quickly and it will stop trying to slip off of the bottle.
Step 3: Run the electrical wires through the bottle
Once the hole was cut, and I cleaned the cutting oil and glass dust off of the bottle, I installed one of the 3/8-inch grommets into the hole to help protect the wires. If you can't get the grommet fully seated with just your fingers, try using a small flathead screwdriver to finish pushing it into place. Then, I started feeding the bare end of the wires through the grommet and out of the top of the bottle.
Step 4: Install the bulb socket
Step 5: Make the optional wood base
I decided to make a 5-1/2 x 5-1/2 inch wooden base for additional stability. You can also achieve extra stability by filling the bottle with marbles to make it heavier if you don't want the base.
You can use any 1x6 board you want. Walnut would be a beautiful hardwood choice for this lamp. However, I used some leftover poplar wood from a previous project and stained it to achieve the darker color. You will need to cut the board to 5-1/2 inches long so that it matches the 5-1/2 inch width of the 1x6 board you choose. (Note: dimensional 1x6 lumber is finished at a width of 5-1/2 inches from the mill, not 6 inches. It will only be 6 inches wide if you are using rough-cut lumber, so check the width of your board before cutting to length.)
Although not necessary, I decided to cut a 1/8-inch deep pocket for the bottle to sit in on top of the base. I did this just in case the glue tried to squeeze out when attaching the bottle to the base. After measuring the diameter of the bottle and adding another 1/8-inch, I made a perfect 3-inch diameter circle using the plunge router with a circle jig attachment. I also decided to use a roman ogee router bit with a palm router to put a decorative edge around the base. This is also not necessary if you would rather just use the board without the decorative features.
After completing the router work, I just used some scrap 120-grit sandpaper to soften the sharp edges around the base prior to putting on the finish.
Step 6: Apply the finish and attach the bottle to the base
Since I used poplar wood, and I wanted a dark brown finish, I had to stain the base. I applied a Varathane Kona finish with a rag and let it dry for 2 hours. I followed it up with a Varathane polyurethane using a rag as well. This allowed me to both apply the protective coat and wipe some of the excess stain off at the same time. It resulted in the wood grain being more visible than if I had let the dark Kona brown stay on longer before applying the poly. I used painter's pyramid stands to keep the bottom of the base from sticking to the work surface.
After allowing the finish to dry for 24 hours, I was able to glue the bottle to the base with the clear Gorilla glue. This stuff is meant to be used on almost everything (wood, glass, stone, metal, ceramic, foam, etc.). Since the glass is non-porous, the bottle needed to be dampened with a wet paper towel prior to applying the glue. I ran a bead of glue on the wood base and another on the bottom of the bottle to make sure I got full coverage of the two touching surfaces. I let it sit for another 24 hours to make sure the glue was cured before moving it again.
Once the glue was cured, I put 3M felt pads on the bottom of the base to protect whatever furniture surfaces that the lamp will sit on.
Step 7: Install the lamp shade and light bulb
Now you are ready to put the lamp shade on. Just slip it over the socket base and screw in your light bulb. This lamp kit was rated for up to 75W.
Plug up the lamp and admire your handiwork.
Questions or Comments?
If you like what you see and are wanting to buy the materials and/or tools to do it yourself, use the links at the top of the post to purchase them on Amazon! Help me keep the plans free without costing you anything extra!
Let me know what you think and don't hesitate to ask any questions by leaving me a note in the comments. Also, post your pictures of finished products for us to see!
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Item condition descriptions straight from AWD's website:
Like new:
A "like new" item sold on Amazon Warehouse Deals is in perfect condition, but due to the condition of the packaging, it does not meet Amazon.com standards for new product. Returned items with minor packaging defects are classified as "like new."
Very good:
If an item has cosmetic damage or blemishes, shows slight signs of use, has minor accessories missing, or the packaging has been replaced to better protect the item, we will assign the condition of "very good."
Good:
If an item has large cosmetic damage or blemishes and/or missing accessories, we will assign the condition of "good." It's possible the packaging has been replaced to better protect the item.
Acceptable:
If an item shows signs of wear including scratches, dents, and other aesthetic problems, we will assign the condition of "acceptable." It's possible the packaging has been replaced to better protect the item, manuals may be missing, and the item may contain third-party attachments.
I have put together a list of 12 examples of items that could be used in your DIY garage that I came across while searching the AWD site. Click on the link above or below to shop Amazon Warehouse Deals yourself!
In no particular order (Price examples are as of the day of this writing):
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